On my trip to New Orleans this past summer, I was beyond excited to walk and photograph the French Quarter. Settled by the French in the 1660’s, it was once the whole city of New Orleans. Now, it’s home to an incredible melting pot of French, African and American culture. The New Year’s tragedy there made me revisit my photos and want to share them with you. Come see the French Quarter in a happier time. Join me and walk along the Mississippi and down Bourbon Street!
Decatur Street
Decatur St. was formerly known as Rue de la Levee, as it runs parallel to the Mississippi River. When the river altered its course in 1870 the name was changed to Decatur Street in honor of naval hero Stephen Decatur Jr.
Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral
Named for our 7th president and hero of the 1815 Battle of New Orleans, Jackson Square has a long history. The French called it Place d’Armes (Weapons Square), and it was where, in 1803, Louisiana was made United States territory.
The open space of Jackson Square is a strong contrast to the crowded streets of the French Quarter, so it really hits you when you come upon it.
Cathedral-Basilica of St. Louis King of France is the oldest Catholic cathedral in the United States that is still in use. Community. The first permanent church was built in 1727 but burned in 1788. The current cathedral was completed in 1851.
“The Union must and shall be preserved”. – Andrew Jackson (1767-1845). This was the world’s first equestrian statue in which the horse had more than one foot off the base.
Pontalba Buildings
Below is one of the Pontalba Buildings that form two sides of Jackson Square. This building on St. Ann Street was built between 1849-1851 by the Baroness Micaela Almonester Pontalba. The Pontalba Buildings were the first cast ironworks in the city, and sparked the trend of adding lacy iron balconies throughout the Quarter.
You can read more about this fascinating woman here.
Madame Begue’s Restaurant
It doesn’t look like much now, but Madame Begue was New Orleans’ original celebrity chef. She opened her restaurant in 1863 and published “Madame Begue’s Recipes of Old New Orleans in 1900.
When Mme Bégué died in 1906, she was so well known that her passing was noted in newspapers in Kentucky, Iowa, California, and Puerto Rico as well as in issues of Everyday Housekeeping (January 1907) and the Boston Cooking School Magazine (December 1906). You can still buy her cookbook, here.
Royal Praline Company
I just couldn’t get enough of that gator!
Dumaine Street
After buying this lot, which was the site of the Navy Yard’s warehouse or magazine from the U.S. Government, Oliver Blineau in 1827 constructed the three-story townhouse above.
Tell me this doesn’t draw you in…
Chartres Street
Chartres Street (CHAR-terz or CHAR-trez) was named for the Duc de Chartres in 1724 and is one of the oldest streets in town. Accordingly, there are quite a few spots which are supposedly haunted. You can read about them on the SouthernSpiriteGuide.org website.
Napoleon House
Built in 1797, the building originally served as the residence of Nicholas Girod, the then-mayor of New Orleans. The property earned its name from the mayor’s offer, in 1821, to provide refuge to Napoleon Bonaparte during his exile.
Decatur Street
1240, 1234, and 1232 Decatur St. (1850), French Quarter
Esplanade Avenue
I’ve reached Esplanade Avenue, which separates the French Quarter from the Faubourg Marigny. I’m going to turn north and meander my way towards Bourbon Street.
New Orleans and the Domestic Slave Trade
Located in the Faubourg Marigny, from the corner of Esplanade Ave and Charles St. (this spot) extending to Kerlerec St., is the former site of Thophilus Freeman’s notorious slave pen (demolished after the Civil War) where Solomon Northup, a free man of color from New York, was sold into slavery in 1841. Northrup’s story is chronicled in his 1853 memoir “12 Years a Slave” and in the award winning movie by the same name.
In 1808, the US Congress abolished the international slave trade, contributing to a significant increase in the domestic slave trade, or the trafficking of human beings within the boundaries of the United States. During the fifty-seven years that followed, an estimated 2 million men, women, and children were separated from families and forcibly moved by slave traders and owners. The largest numbers were brought from the Upper South to the Lower South via overland and water routes.
New Orleans was the center of this trade, resulting in more than fifty documented sites. More enslaved people were sold here from slave pens, public squares, government buildings, church properties, city taverns, private residences, auction houses, and even ballrooms of luxury hotels than anywhere else in the US.
The Lanaux Mansion
It’s not much to look at from this angle, but there’s a lot going on here. The mansion was built in 1875 by a wealthy Connecticut attorney. It’s now a bed and breakfast. From their website: “The house has appeared in the films Cat People starring Natassja Kinski in 1982 and The Curious Case of Benjamin Button starring Brad Pitt in 2008; cooking shows and dinner parties hosted by celebrity chefs John Folse and Paul Prudhomme; the show If Walls Could Talk on HGTV; and even a paranormal ghost-hunting show or two. Oh, and we’re also listed in the Ghost Hunter’s Guide to New Orleans and on several of those “Most Haunted Places” lists as well, but don’t let that scare you away.”
A Pirate Captain’s House
According to the Jean Lafitte House’s website, proof exists that the blue building below was built in 1809 by Jean Lafitte’s Captain, Rene Beluche, using brick and planks from ships. Lafitte was one of the most famous American pirates, who fought for the United States during the war of 1812. He and his 1,000 men were stronger than the U.S. Navy at that time. Reserve a room or read more at their website.
Royal Street
The LaLaurie, or Haunted House
On the corner of Royal and Governor Nicholls streets is a mansion that is known as one of the most haunted properties in the city. The story goes that Delphine Mccarty LaLaurie was a wealthy socialite who allegedly tortured enslaved people in her home.
The mansion was owned by actor Nicholas Cage for a short time, and inspired the 3rd season of “American Horror Story”.
The house was for sale when I visited in August, but was sold at auction in October 2024 for $1,607,500.
Royal Street
The Vampire House
According to local tales, this house was home to the Vampire Jacques St. Germain in the early 1900’s. He claimed to be the descendant of the famed Count of St. Germain. Locations of Lore gives all the juicy details on their website.
The beautiful Spanish architecture replaced many of the older French buildings after the great fires of 1788 and 1794.
Ursulines Avenue
Royal Street
Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar
At the corner of Bourbon and St. Philip Sts., ledgend has it that the pirate Lafitte brothers’ blacksmith shop was where they sold their pirated goods. The ghost of Jean Lafitte is said to wander this “oldest bar in the U.S.” The building escaped two great fires at the turn of the 19th Century, due to slate roofing.
All the mule and carriage tours stop at this famous corner.
Bourbon Street
When New Orleans was the Capital of the Spanish province of Luisiana (1762-1803) this street bore the name Calle de San Felipe.
Lafitte Hotel
Also at this intersection is the Lafitte Guest House, built in 1849 by Joshua Peebles. It was built for Paul Gleises, a debt collector, and his wife & six children. In the 20th century it became a hotel, and today is the Lafitte Hotel and Bar, with an art gallery downstairs.
New Orleans is known as the most haunted city in America. According to Ghost City Tours, the Lafitte Guest House is haunted by one of the Gleises children who died from yellow fever.
You can read all about it and the other hauntings there on their website.
Bourbon Street
Lafitte’s is the oldest gay bar in the US, dating back to 1933 and the end of Prohibition. Frequented by Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote.
The French Quarter Mansion is also known as the “Uneeda A Biscuit” factory
and 736 (1820), 740 (1921) Dumaine St.
The intersection of Bourbon Street and St. Ann Street begins the section of Bourbon that caters to New Orleans’ thriving gay community. Lafitte-In-Exile is the oldest gay bar in the country and Tennessee Williams was a frequent visitor during his time in New Orleans.
Royal Street behind St. Louis Cathedral
The statue of Jesus in the below photo was damaged during Hurricane Katrina in 2005. The thumb and forefinger of Jesus snapped off in the gale. Archbishop Alfred Hughes promised not to repair the statue until New Orleans was rebuilt but then decided to, as a symbol of hope for the city’s recovery. The military did eventually find the statue’s damaged fingers when they assisted with the massive cleanup.
Pirate’s Alley
Pirate’s Alley is names after pirate Jean Lafitte and his brother Pierre, who were privateers in the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico. They were known in the area for smuggling and piracy. Word has it that this alley was used by pirates to enter town from the Mississippi River.
St. Peter Street / Royal Street
a neighborhood bar with a good burger.
Bourbon Street
The French Quarter has the most bars per capita in America.
This is very close to where the terrible New Year’s Day attack occurred.
New Orleans Musical Legends Park
New Orleans is known as the birthplace of jazz. A small park at 311 Bourbon Street pays tribute to New Orleans legends with life-size bronze statues. Sit and listen for free to live jazz from 10AM until closing. I wish I had had the time to sit for a while.
Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House
Boasting one of the world’s largest American whiskey collections. It has picture window’s overlooking the street’s live entertainment, and the New York Times called it “one of the best people watching perches in the city”.
The Bead Seller
As I reached the end of Bourbon Street I ran into a beautiful woman selling beads. With a smile, she asked me if I wanted to buy any. When I declined, she sashayed off, swinging the beads as she swayed. I turned and snapped a photo of her…and to this day I wish I had bought some of her beads. Maybe some day I’ll see her again down there. I hope so. Buy the beads, my friends.
Thank you letting me share my walk through the French Quarter with you. I’ll hope you’ll come back soon for more real photos.
Photos property of debbieinthecity.com unless otherwise noted. May not be duplicated without written permission. Any links or mention of products or services are for information purposes only and not an endorsement.
Sources:
The Collins C. Diboll Vieux Carre Digital Survey
New Orleans Historical by UNO
Library of Congress – Blogs
NOLA.com – LaLaurie Mansion
Archdiocese of New Orleans – Remembering Katrina
TripShock – French Quarter Architecture Fun Facts